One might expect a restaurant called Borderline Grill to be a Mexican cantina; “borderline” harkens to the Taco Bell ads from the early ’90s. But Borderline Grill, at Mayberry Square, near Centennial Terrace, is an all-American bistro with a wonderfully eclectic menu, brought to Sylvania by chef and owner Kristopher Parker and his personal and professional partner, Nikki Falk. Cincinnati native Parker was formerly the head chef of Barr’s Public House in Maumee.
American dream
“(Borderline Grill) was an opportunity to build something of our own,” said Parker. “We’re just trying to bring something nice to the community. We have a lot of standard American fare, but we leave it open-ended to do a variety of different things, ranging from poutine to gumbo. There’s always something new to try here.”
The deep red hue of the brick walls that line the interior of the restaurant sets a comforting tone on this hot summer night. Behind the bar, Chris Ryan deftly pours, shakes, and mixes a wide variety of cocktails and libations, including the delicious Tangerine Dream, which I order based on the name alone, since it made me think of the famed German electronic band that did the score for the classic Tom Cruise movie “Risky Business.” The drink consists of orange juice, triple sec, vanilla vodka, and Sprite and tastes like a melted Creamsicle- -cool, tart, and refreshing.
While I sipped on my drink, our server, a delightful woman named Nina, visited our high top table with a bright and fresh attitude and a commanding knowledge of the entire menu. After perusing the eclectic offerings, we ordered the Sweet & Savory Fried Pickles, hand breaded chips, fried then served with a delicious tangy house-made ranch dressing. The pickles taste like bread and butter pickles — they’re sweeter than your typical dill chips that one usually finds around these parts, but they’re most assuredly not sweet pickles. It’s an unusual twist on a classic dish, which is Borderline’s trademark.
Culinary art
Take the smash burger, which was ordered by one of my dinner companions. You can get a smash burger anywhere, but at Borderline, its a work of culinary art. Even Tony Geftos, the local newscaster and foodie about town, a regular reviewer on social media, gave the Borderline smash burger his seal of approval. It’s perfectly grilled–not too pink, not too burnt–with delightfully crispy edges, served with thick cut bacon and gooey melted cheese on a soft brioche bun. Add a side salad and you have a perfect meal.
Of course, walleye filets are a Toledo area favorite, and Borderline’s take on the local iconic dish stands out from most of their competition. My dinner companion chose to have the fish fried (grilled is also an option) and a large portion of walleye filet is served on a bed of mashed red potatoes. What makes the fish special is the creamy pepperoncini lemon butter sauce that comes with the dish. It’s the perfect accent to the tender flaky pieces of walleye ( the serving was so large that a to-go box was deployed).
‘A bona fide masterpiece’
Then there was my dish, which I ordered from the list of specials–wild mushroom risotto with grilled chicken. This meal was a bona fide masterpiece, with the risotto cooked into a creamy, mouth-melting blend of mushrooms and parmesan, with tender pieces of well-seasoned chicken placed atop.
Our dining party was pretty well sated by the time we came around to thinking about dessert but we had to conclude our excellent meal with a bang. All of Borderline’s desserts come courtesy of Ukrainiansweets (yes, it’s one word), a local company that specializes in delicious, delicate cheesecakes that are true works of art. We ordered the pistachio cheesecake, which was rich and sweet without being overpowering, baked in a graham cracker crust.
There’s also a series of after dinner cocktails, such as the Mike Jones, made with chocolate syrup, vodka, Irish cream, coffee, and hazelnut liqueur. Being pleasantly full from the risotto and cheesecake, I opted against dancing with Mr. Jones this visit. But there will be other opportunities, because I intend to visit Borderline Grill again. Welcome to the neighborhood, Borderline.
Borderline Grill
5680 N. Mayberry Square, Sylvania.
567-833-6009
T-Th 11:30am-9pm
F 11:30am-10pm
Sat 3-10pm
borderlinegrill.com.
